Seiko Asterisk 5E30-5A30 Yukisaburo Watanabe
Model: Seiko Asterisk 5E30-5A30 – Yukisaburo Watanabe Collaboration
Overview:
Seiko Asterisk 5E30-5A30, an exceptionally unusual late-1980s Seiko created in collaboration with renowned Japanese fashion designer Yukisaburo Watanabe.
Watanabe collaborated with Seiko on several watches from the late 1980s into the early 1990s, producing designs that were far removed from the conventional Seiko dress watches of the period. The 5E30-5A30 presented here is one of the earliest and most recognizable examples of this collaboration.
At first glance, it hardly resembles a conventional wristwatch. The rectangular Tank-style case is decorated with four black onyx cabochons positioned around its corners, while a hinged metal shutter completely conceals the dial when closed. Opening the shutter reveals a surprisingly classical ivory dial with black Roman numerals underneath.
History:
The Asterisk belongs to one of the more experimental periods of Seiko design. Surviving examples of the 5E30-5A30 date to the late 1980s, while Japanese vintage dealers also identify the reference as a Yukisaburo Watanabe collaboration from approximately the late 1980s into the early 1990s.
Its most distinctive feature is undoubtedly the protective shutter. The concept has parallels with some fascinating designs from traditional Swiss watchmaking, particularly watches that conceal or physically transform their dials. The architecture may remind collectors of pieces such as Vacheron Constantin's shutter watches or the Cartier Tank Basculante, although the Asterisk predates the 1992 introduction of the modern Tank Basculante.
Four black onyx cabochons punctuate the corners of the rectangular case, providing a dramatic contrast against the gold-tone exterior and emphasizing the jewelry-like character of the design.
Hidden underneath the shutter is another particularly charming detail. The inside is engraved:
“Inter Machinam et Decorem”
The Latin can be interpreted approximately as “Between the Machine and Elegance,” a phrase that perfectly suits a watch where the functional timepiece is literally hidden beneath its decorative exterior. A Japanese vintage dealer independently documents both the engraving and this interpretation.
Specifications and Condition:
Overall: Excellent Vintage Condition
Case: Excellent
Crystal: Clean
Dial: Clean
Movement: Excellent
Bracelet/Strap: Leather Strap
Case Reference: 5E30-5A30
Collection: Seiko Asterisk
Designer: Yukisaburo Watanabe
Production Period: Late 1980s / Early 1990s
Movement:
Seiko Caliber 5E30
Analog Quartz Movement
Dimensions:
Approximately 23–24mm Case Width
Approximately 33–34mm Case Length
Approximately 6.6mm Thickness
16mm Lug Width
Design Details:
Yukisaburo Watanabe Collaboration
Rectangular Tank-Style Case
Hinged Protective Shutter
Four Black Onyx Cabochons
Ivory Dial
Closing Note:
The Seiko Asterisk 5E30-5A30 is one of those watches that serves as a reminder of just how experimental Seiko could be during the late 1980s.
There is a wonderful contradiction to the design. With the shutter closed, there is almost nothing to immediately identify the object as a wristwatch. The gold-tone rectangular case and four black onyx stones instead give it the appearance of a small piece of jewelry. Lift the cover and underneath is an incredibly traditional ivory Roman-numeral dress watch.
The shutter mechanism also makes for an interesting comparison with much more famous Swiss designs. Its ability to hide and reveal the dial brings to mind vintage shutter watches from Vacheron Constantin and, from a modern perspective, the Cartier Tank Basculante. Rather than suggesting that Watanabe copied either design, I think it is more interesting to view the Asterisk as Seiko's own distinctly Japanese interpretation of the transforming dress watch.
Even the hidden Latin inscription feels perfectly chosen. “Inter Machinam et Decorem” approximately “Between the Machine and Elegance” describes a watch whose appeal comes from the contrast between those two ideas.
The original design was also offered in two different sizes, intended for both men and women, with both versions shown together in the final photograph.
Today the Asterisk remains a seldom-seen corner of vintage Seiko collecting. It isn't historically important because of a revolutionary movement or technical achievement; rather, it is memorable because Seiko gave a Japanese fashion designer the freedom to create something genuinely unconventional. More than three decades later, the 5E30-5A30 still looks unlike almost anything else carrying the Seiko name.
